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Ultra-fast fashion under fire

Some Marseille shoppers welcomed the pop-up, happy to finally touch and try on clothes before purchasing. Others, however, see the initiative as an invitation to overconsume and a reinforcement of a fast fashion model widely criticized for its harmful effects. Shein’s business approach, built on constantly renewed collections—feeds, according to its detractors, a vicious cycle of mass production and textile waste.

A strategic move to convert online audiences

After rising to global fame thanks to ultra-low prices and trend-driven online sales, Shein is multiplying pop-up stores to convert its digital traffic into in-store experience. For many visitors, being able to handle products and try them on is a clear advantage over online shopping.

But this marketing initiative quickly collided with criticism of the brand’s model, overshadowing the event.

Backlash over product quality, ethics and environmental impact

Mixed reactions to the pop-up’s arrival in Marseille

The opening of the Shein's pop-up store in Marseille has sparked numerous calls for a boycott. “There are already enough fast-fashion shops in Marseille,” one resident complained. Critics point to Shein’s ultra-fast fashion model, which they consider incompatible with responsibility and sustainability. Rebecca Bernardi, Deputy Mayor, wrote on X (formerly Twitter): “Ultra-fast fashion has no place in our city.”

Several experts argue that Shein’s approach, offering cheap but low-quality clothing, fuels a cycle of overconsumption. Ethical fashion specialist Marie Dubois notes: “Shein represents everything that is wrong with fast fashion: huge production volumes at the expense of quality.”

Shein is also heavily criticised for its production practices, widely described as alarming. According to various reports, its low prices rely on exploited labour, harsh working conditions, and extremely low wages. Allegations of labour rights violations and even forced labour — particularly in sensitive regions such as Xinjiang — further inflame the debate around the ethics of its business model. Shein, however, denies any involvement in forced Uyghur labour and claims not to work with suppliers in that area.

Environmental concerns at the forefront

For environmental advocates, the opening of the pop-up store highlights what they see as an irresponsible economic model. The mass production of low-cost clothing consumes vast resources and generates enormous quantities of textile waste.

Marie Dubois explains: “These clothes quickly end up as waste, feeding an unsustainable cycle for the environment.”

In an interview with Le Parisien, Peter Pernot-Day, the group’s Head of Strategy, attempted to defend Shein’s model, arguing that its reputation has suffered from misunderstanding:
“Our unique and innovative model is still poorly understood. Because we communicated very little until now, people do not know that our environmental impact is much lower than they think. We wait to confirm demand before producing, which requires extreme agility in our processes.”

A pop-up strategy under growing pressure

The controversy surrounding Marseille's Shein pop-up may mark a turning point. As Shein accelerates its physical expansion, it now faces consumers who increasingly demand transparency and sustainability.

This backlash is part of a broader national trend: several cities — including Nice — have already refused to host the brand. Christian Estrosi, Mayor of Nice, publicly stated that “Shein is not welcome,” citing ethical and environmental concerns linked to its business model.

While Shein continues to rely on pop-up stores to support its growth strategy, this mounting political resistance and consumer awareness signal the significant challenges the brand will face moving forward.